Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Hike: Red River Gorge - Courthouse Rock and Double Arch

Trails: Auxier Ridge, Auxier Branch, Double Arch, Old Tunnel Ridge Road (Closed to Motorized transport beyond Auxier ridge Parking Area)
Sites: Courthouse Rock, Double Arch
Mileage: Around 9.5 with Side Trail to Campsite
Camp Sites:  Koomer Ridge Campground, Side Trail off of Tunnel Ridge Road

A few weeks back, I got my first taste of backpacking in 2013 with a trip to a new Red River Gorge location.  Here's a quick recap of the entire trip with some tips that we found along the way.

Night 1: Koomer Ridge Campground

We left Northern Kentucky around 3:30 PM, and made it to the campground before 6:00.  For $7 (winter rate) we got a perfectly flat campsite that fit all 3 of our tents easily.  The tent area was crushed gravel, and had several lantern posts and a picnic table.  This site left nothing to be desired, as the area is well maintained and patrolled.

Koomer Ridge Campground
The campground was relatively full, even during the first weekend of April. and it was a bit challenging to find a spot. Once settled in, we decided to look for some dinner.  we drove into Stanton, and found a great Mexican restaurant called El Cancun. The food there was excellent, and they had an open mic night on Friday.  The place was practically empty by the time we got there, but the salsa was excellent, and I haven't had Chile Verde as good as that for a while.  It was worth the drive to Stanton to visit.
Backcountry Palaces

That night dipped into the low 30's.  Not cold enough to freeze my water bottles but cold enough that I could see my breath in the morning.  I was in a 20 degree TNF sleeping bag on a Therm-a-Rest 40th Anniversary Sleeping pad and was warm enough to get a few hours sleep.



Day 2 - Courthouse Rock and Double Arch:
The next morning we woke up and cooked a campsite breakfast of eggs, bacon, and home fries.  Freshly fortified and eager to go, we headed off to the Auxier Ridge parking area where we set off for Courthouse Rock.

Courthouse Rock:
Courthouse Rock from a Distance
This was a pretty cool area, and we explored a bit around Courthouse Rock before heading back to the trail.  Just before the actual CR area, there is a large, newly built staircase.  The Courthouse Rock Loop trail is directly to the left of the bottom of this staircase, and CR is right in front of you.  This is the biggest elevation change on this section of trail, and is downwards.  There is a creek in this area, and will be the last water source you'll see if you follow the path we did.

Auxier Branch:

You can follow the loop back around, and hike back to the Auxier Ridge Parking area, or you can take Auxier Branch over to the Double Arch area.  We took Auxier Branch which is under a Mile, and hiked up to Double Arch.  Double Arch earned it's name by having a small hole in the middle of the natural bridge that was formed here.  Making it to Double Arch is a Moderate hike, as there is some more serious elevation change to deal with.

Double Arch:
There is a staircase going up to the lower area of Double Arch,
Joey, the Spider Dog
which drops you in one of the best lunch spots along the trail.  Here, we dropped our packs and had a snack.  I took a break while my companions went off in search of the easiest way to get back to Tunnel Ridge Road. While hiking along this area, the sandstone provided incredible grip, and Joey, the Norwich Terrier who belongs to one of my hiking partners found his calling as a vertical rock face climber.  Trail Name: spider Dog.  Since we weren't all equipped with the spider Dog's prowess, we avoided the climbing in the area and settled on following the trail back around the loop and walking up the stairs to the road level.

Once on Tunnel Ridge road, I looked at my maps of the area. (The best maps in the area are made by OutrageGIS) and found some campsites marked on unofficial side trails to the east of Tunnel Ridge Road.  The first side trail was a bust, as every camp site was jam packed with campers.  To the south about another 1/4 mile there was another trail.  About a mile and a half in, we found a large site that was perfect to fit our tents and gear.  we settled in to cook dinner, and the only complaint was a dead tree that was creaking loudly in the wind all night.

Day 3 - Out and Back to Indian Staircase:

After a quick morning hike back to the Parking area, we grabbed breakfast in Slade and headed over to a side trail to Indian Staircase.  This is a quick hike on an established trail of maybe 1/2 mile, and then an very difficult hike up to the staircase area.  I intend to do a more thorough article on this area later this summer, so stay tuned and I will give this area it's due in it's own post.

All told, it was an excellent trip, and one that is worth doing.  If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments section and I will address them as soon as I can.

Beginners Buying Guide...

I have taken a few people on their first backpacking trips at this point, and every time I introduce someone to this fantastic pastime, I hear them say the same thing...

"I am going to get some cheap stuff to make sure I like it, and I'll invest in better stuff if I think I'll continue to go"

On the surface, this seems like a pretty logical thing to do.  You don't start off driving in a Lamborghini, you get an old car to get your eye in, and gradually get nicer cars as you get better at driving.
Backpacking is different though.  The wrong gear will almost ensure that you won't enjoy yourself, and is a bigger waste of money than you could possibly imagine. If you can, befriend a backpacker.  Almost all of us have far too much stuff, and it's pretty much a sure bet that you'll be able to borrow some pretty good stuff for your first trip.  If that isn't an option, here's my basic buyers guide:


1: The Backpack

A backpack that fits you and is properly adjusted will impact your trip more than any other piece of equipment.  You don't have to spend too much to get a good pack.  Sierra Trading Post has dozens of great choices around the $100 dollar mark, and most of them are excellent choices.  Depending on how long you want to go for, you should size your pack appropriately.

 

Weekend (a reasonable first trip): 50-60 liters 
4 day: 60-70 liters
Longer: beyond the scope of this discussion, but packs can reach nearly 90 liters and more.
Some things I try to avoid:

Lots of pockets:pockets require material, and material equals weight.

Heavy packs: I like a pack under 3 lbs, because I have good gear and don't carry a lot of weight.  One thing you'll notice is that heavier packs almost always have more padding.  A good starter pack will likely weigh around 5-6 lbs.  This should give you plenty of padding and good straps that allow you to adjust a pack to your liking.  You'll see some around 8lbs, which is far too heavy.

Non adjustable packs: Getting the right fit is crucial to comfort, and adjustable packs let you dial it in nicely. When you get more experience in how you like your pack adjusted, you might be able to switch to a lighter, non adjustable pack by measuring one you have set to your liking.  Until you have done that homework, stick with an adjustable.

External Frame or Frameless Packs: Internal frame packs make up the vast majority of packs on the market for a reason. They offer flexibility blended with support.  External frame packs used to be the default choice for backpackers because of their ability to make a heavy load comfortable.  Now that gear is lighter, it's not worth giving up the flexibility that you need on the trail to get that small amount of additional comfort. External frames are often heavier as well, meaning that huffing up hills will be just a little bit harder. Frameless packs are bad because they offer too much flexibility in the pack, and they have to be packed VERY carefully to avoid uncomfortable lumps against your back. I have a frameless pack, and I have used it once.  I was miserable, so I only use it as a carry on when I fly now.

Military Packs: the military cares most about durability, and their packs are built to last. That also means that they're heavy.  A military style ruck is made to be thrown around, used as a support when shooting, and generally abused in combat situations.  It's unlikely that your first backpacking trip will land you in a war zone with an M4, so I avoid them.  They're amazing at doing what the military needs them to do, but inappropriate for backpackers.

2: The Tent

The tent is also critical.  In summer months, a cheap tent will become a sweat lodge if put up before sundown.  There are also some really great deals on tents at Sierra Trading Post, and if you take your time you'll find a good bargain under 100 dollars. Get a tent that is an appropriate size for your needs, more is not always more.  If it's just going to be you in the tent, consider a 1 person option.  i like a 2 person tent personally, and like having 2 vestibules.  Here are some things to look for:

Freestanding: always get a freestanding tent when starting off.  They're easier to pitch and are much kore stable in wind.  Semi Freestanding and Non-freestanding are nice for weight savings but are tricky to stake out and are fussy.  Personally, I'd rather carry an extra pound worth of poles than have to spend an hour getting my tent put up after 9 miles on the trail.

Removable rain fly:  The sign of a proper tent is the removable rain fly.  Under the fly you'll usually find a lot of no-see-um mesh.  This is great for ventilation and will give you a wonderful, bug-free night under the stars if rain isn't in the forecast.  Resist the $30 Wal-Mart tent, and you'll be rewarded with a much more pleasurable experience.

3: The Sleep System:

Yes, the sleeping bag matters, but in my opinion not as much as the sleeping pad.  If you're going during the summer, a decent 40 degree sleeping bag will run between $60 to $80.  For someone starting off, I recommend the more versatile synthetic fill bag. It holds warmth when when wet and costs a fraction of what a down bag costs.
In my opinion, the best investment a beginning backpacker can make it a Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest sleeping pad.  They're virtually indestructible, insanely comfortable, and under $20.  I see a lot of beginning backpackers on $10 foam mats that offer little support, when for $6 to $8 more they could have had one of the best pads on the market.  You'll likely grow into a self inflatable pad in the long run, but to start off it's impossible to beat the Ridge Rest.
Things you can leave behind:

My first suggestion here is going to be controversial, but I believe in it.  You don't need a stove and cookset for your first trip.  This is largely due to two reasons:

1. Someone else will likely have a stove in case of an emergency.  Always hike with an experienced backpacker until you gain experience.

2. Mountain House has a new freeze dried Chicken Salad meal that only requires cold water.  Ditch the weight and expense of a stove, and eat well.  Don't forget to pack out the pouch the food comes in, and to always follow Leave No Trace guidelines.

The other thing I truly think you can leave behind is the hatchet or saw.  If you absolutely must have a campfire, burn small stuff that you can break by hand, and never take down branches.  Only burn whats on the ground.

That's it for my beginners buying guide.  Next week, i'll dive into some of the accessories that can make you more comfortable on the trail.  I am sure I missed a lot in here, but the purpose of this was not to write a definitive guide to everything backpacking, but to give an honest opinion of the 3 major components of a trip; Eating, Sleeping, and Hiking.

Disclaimer:  I do not work for, nor am I sponsored or compensated by any of the companies or products mentioned above.  These opinions are my own.